Photography course: blurred or moved?

My photos are not as clear as those of the others and seem a little "kneading". What can it depend on?

The causes of an unmoted image are many. First of all, as we have been able to say several times, the quality of the perspective plays a fundamental role in the final rendering of the photo.

It is no coincidence that professionals invest in bright goals and with high quality lenses at least two thirds of their overall expenditure.

Then there is the sensitivity of the film (or the sensor) that puts it of his, the higher and worse it is, and finally the "firm hand" of the photographer who is acquired only with experience and correctly challenging the camera.

However, if we do not have enough money to spend on a super sophisticated camera and even if we are a beginner, adopting some simple precautions we can greatly improve our photos.

First of all, the problem must be identified and understand if the photo is out of focus or if it is moved. The difference is often imperceptible and only by enlarged the image can we determine the cause of its poor quality.

Blur

Excluding each coarse -focused error, generally theblurIt concerns only the subject we wanted to resume, while other areas will be more or less on fire. The problem often presents itself with the autofocus because the system works by measuring the differences in shades and not the outline of the point framed, as it happened with the chopped hazard of the image of the old reflex image. To realize the limit of the autofocus, just try to focus on the blue sky without cloud or a wall with a uniform shade: we will discover that even the most sophisticated system will have difficulties and we will be forced to focus by hand.

We have previously seen that the problem can be reduced by closing the diaphragm more, however modern objectives also offer other valid alternatives such as the multi -point autofocus, the 3D pursuit, the continuous autofocus, or the limiter of the focus flow that increases the speed and precision of the system, or even the electronic telemeter.

Photos move

However, if the lack of sharpness is distributed throughout the frame and even realize small strips, then almost certainly thephoto is moved. The causes can be two: either the subject moved while we recovered it using a too slow laying time or our hand trembled a little during the shot. In both cases the solution is all too obvious: a faster laying time must be used.

The rule says that the shutter speed must never be less than the length of the focal length that is being used, i.e. with a 24 mm we will be able to shoot freehand using 1/20 of second (in the old reflex the time was 1/15 or 1/30) and with a 300mm it would never be necessary to go below 1/300 second (1/250 or 1500 on the old SLRX). Obviously for really slow times, we are talking from 1/8 of second second, it is essential to use the stand or place the camera somewhere.

Treppiesi

A trick when we use the tripod is to raise the mirror before the shot and / or use the self -timer. In doing so, we will definitively eliminate any risk of micro-man. The problem, however, is widespread, and many manufacturers have added to compact cameras an antivibration system that it is good to always keep activated, even if it consumes a little more energy.

For reflex, on the other hand, objectives are on the market with a gyroscopic stabilizer or car bodies inside with a stabilizer mounted directly on the sensor. The effect is the same but the advantage of the second solution lies in the fact that the objectives not stabilized are lighter and easier to build than others (and therefore they cost less), and even if we change the optics the stabilizer always remains in our camera.

Finally, it is good to remember that a wide angle will move much less than a telephoto lens because it is lighter and more handy, and then the geometry teaches that a small arch projected at a great distance becomes a large arch, and therefore a movement imperceptible to us will cause in distant subjects a "moved" effect much more evident than it is actually.

Complete photography course

1. Photography course: which camera to choose?
2. Photography course. The beginning: useful advice
3. Photography course: sensitivity
4. Photography course: blurred or moved?
5. Photography course: the confusion club
6. Photography course: the diaphragms
7. Photography course: the battery
8. Photography course: how to challenge the camera